Had the Soviet Union lasted a few more years, there might be nothing of interest to see in Dzerzhinsky today.

The 600 year-old Nilola-Ugresh cloister, around which this small town – located on the Moscow River, only 15 km from the capital – evolved, was pillaged and desecrated by the communist authorities for decades, to the point that its historical buildings were almost beyond repair.

With the fall of communism, citizens of Dzerzhinsky were free not only to voice political opinions but also to revive and care for their ancient heritage.

Erected in 1380 under the orders of Dmitry Donskoi, the Cloister was a sign of the city's gratitude to God and St. Nicholas for the defeat of the invading Mongols. According to legends, this is the spot where Dmitry Donskoi saw an apparition of Nikolai as he led his armies to fight the Mongol Khan Mamai. Encouraged by the apparition, Donskoi exclaimed ‘That warms my heart!' ‘Ugresha, the old Russian word for warmth, became the name of the cloister and the city.

The cloister's fame and prosperity were enhanced by its proximity to the settlement of Ostrov, a tsarist country residence. On their way from Moscow to Ostrov, the tsars, together with their families and retinues, used to make what they called the ‘Ugresh pilgrimage.'

The cloister's architectural ensemble was formed between the 16th-18th centuries but underwent a fundamental reconstruction in the second half of the 19th century.

The new complex was built in traditional Russian style. The Cathedral is Russia's second largest church after Moscow's Christ the Savior. The cloister's territory also included a garden and several ponds and was surrounded by a brick wall with 8 gates and 16 towers. The new complex included some of the old edifices — the Tsar's and Patriarch's mansions, the belfry and three wall towers dating from the 17th century.

After consolidation of power, the communists immediately sought to erase the city's past, renaming it in 1920 Krasny Detsky Gorodok (Red Children's Town). This apparently didn't suit them so they changed it to Dzerzhinsky Trudovaya Kommuna (Dzerzhinsky Labor Commune) — named after Feliz Dzerzhinsky — founder of the Cheka, forerunner of the KGB. The Labor Commune was nothing but a reformatory for homeless children, who occupied the territory of the cloister. Perhaps realizing that it was a long and clumsy name, the authorities shortened it to Dzerzhinsky.

The communists didn't take long to go to work on the city's cloister.

The cloister's chapels and belfry were destroyed, its garden was ploughed and the cloister's auxiliary structures were ‘remodeled' to accommodate an STD clinic and a medical facility. The famous Transfiguration Church didn't fare much better, it was converted into a gym hall. To add insult to injury, the ancient Nikolsky church was knocked down.

Later, in late 1970s, the wooden church of Sergii Radonezhsky and its rectory were destroyed by fire. Allegedly, the restorers set fire to the church in order to hide their theft of building materials.

Fortunately, the communist system perished before the cloister could. Since then, a miracle has taken place.

The town's ancient features are being restored to their former color and glory through efforts of the town's residents and partly through financial backing from Moscow.

The Cloister's territory is a good place for serene walks. There are footpaths paved in decorative stone, and an old pond with ducks. The cloister is functional and its inhabitants can be seen walking around, when free from their chores.

A museum was established near the Cloister. It is open for pilgrims and tourists, however archbishop's permission is required for admission.

The cloister is self-sufficient as it operates a small farm, including cows, sheep and chickens and several greenhouses cultivating lemons, coffee, laurel and pineapples.

Attention is also being given to the city's more basic features:

The town is strikingly clean and tidy. In the center, beside the modern apartment blocks and trading center, there is a statue of Dmitry Donskoi, the Grand Duke of Moscow who founded the town. Freshly cut flowers always lie at the pedestal. The square around the monument is a favorite hangout of local youth. Remarkably, you will not see a single piece of waste paper or an empty can there

The streets around the cloister are worth a walk as there are lots of old mansions with beautiful windows painted red, brown and yellow.

The ride to Dzerzhinsky is not at all tiresome or tedious. There is a comfortable regular bus and the road runs through the picturesque Tomilinsky forest-park.

It is better to complete a tour of Dzerzhinsky in one day because there are no hotels in the city. As for lunch, there is an eatery near the cloister and there are lots of cafes in the city.

How to get there: From metro station Kuzminki bus line #347 (7 rubles) or minibus (9 rubles)

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