Pereslavl-Zalessky: Capital of the lake region

Issue Number: 
246
Author: 
By Alexander Astafyev
Published: 
2000-07-22


Beatufilly located in lush countryside with a superb lake, Pereslavl- Zalessky is a delightful town. Churches, monastries, 19th century factories, wooden houses, mansions and communist apartment buildings make it a unique example of Russian History. Pereslavl-Zalessky, one of the oldest Russian cities, is located 140 km to the northeast of Moscow by the huge Pleshcheyev Lake. Few towns can compare with its beautiful setting.

Not all Pereslavl's visitors immediately realize its beauty. Those who merely see the main street often criticize the place, saying it has no squares and just small wooden houses.

There is an element of truth to this criticism — the main street runs for three kilometers through the whole town. To appreciate Pereslavl you should take the time to wander through its streets and along the banks of the River Trubezh. From the top of Goritsky Hill the town looks pretty much the same as it did many centuries ago — this is real Russia.

The famous writer Mikhail Prishvin, who lived for many years in Pereslavl, once wrote, "Here you can imagine almost the entire history of Russia, looking at the monuments from different centuries."

In the 13th century, the town was home to the famous military leader Alexander Nevskii This tough Russian commander defeated the Teutonic Knights who had been wreaking havoc along the Baltic.

Pereslavl and Moscow princedoms united at the beginning of the 14th century. Since then, the fate of Pereslavl has been inextricably intertwined with Moscow. Great princes and tsars often spent time in the town. They made generous contributions to the Pereslavl monasteries, building churches and castle walls with their own money — taken from the masses.

When the seat of government transferred from Moscow to St. Petersburg. The entire region waned in importance. Pereslavl-Zalessky gradually ceased to attract the tsar's and, as a result, hard currency stopped flowing into town.

Realizing the difficulty of survival without a new source of income, the residents began introduce manufacturing to the town. During the 19th century, the population grew, with factories and plants appearing. The town's population had reached 10,000 by the beginning of the 20th century. Despite moderate industrialization, life there remained quiet and unhurried.

The communist era also left its mark, putting up bland, uninspiring high rise blocks and moving in people to occupy them. The population of the town is now over 40,000.

Located on the city's Red Square, is the Savior Transfiguration Cathedral, constructed in 1152, it is the oldest landmark. This church is also an ideal point to start your tour. Nearby are the Peter the Metropolitan Church, the Church of Vladimir Mother-of-God Icon and the Church of Alexander Nevsky.

Take a bus or just walk down the city's central street to the Goritsky Monastery — an impressive piece of the 17th-18th century architecture, located in Muzeiny Pereulok. The monastery, once the residence of the ruling archbishop, currently houses a museum of history and arts — displaying a rich collection of Russian icons and artworks.

It's a short walk to the ‘Botik' estate museum, where Peter the Great once stayed. Further down the banks of the Pleshcheyev Lake, at the mouth of the Trubezh River, is the famous Church of Forty Saints (Sorokosvyatskaya), built in 1775. The famous Fyodor Monastery, once the city's richest, is located south of the centre. The Monastery's most distinguished edifice is the Fyodor Stratilat Church, built in the 16th century.

To the north, meanwhile, is the Nikitsky Monastery. The road here runs past the city's cemetery with a beautiful chapel glimming through the trees. The Nikitsky Monastery was founded by Nikita, a local miracle-worker, hundreds of years ago. One of the monastery's favorite legends tells about the miraculous healing of Ivan the Terrible's son after he drank water from the monastery's well. The Nikitsky Church was restored during the Soviet era. Sadly in 1984, the dome fell causing considerable damage. Regardless the Nikitsky Monastry remains a famous site, it featured in the movies of War and Peace, and ‘Yemelyan Pugachev.'

Located so close to Moscow, Pereslavl is the ideal place for an inexpensive and relaxing trip. The town has a modern hotel complex (15 Sovetskaya Ul.), two restaurants and a cozy beach with a boating station. This is the quintessential quiet, Russian provincial town.

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