Had the Soviet system had lasted a few more years, there might be nothing of interest left in Dzerzhinsky today. Located on the Moscow River only 15 kilometers from the capital, the 600-year-old Nikola-Ugresh cloister around which this small town suffered from communist mistreatment for decades, to the point where its historical buildings were almost beyond repair. Then, with the fall of communism, the town's residents discovered they were free not only to voice their political opinions but also to revive and care for their ancient heritage.

Built in 1380 under the orders of Dmitry Donskoi, the cloister was a sign of the city's gratitude to God and St. Nicholas for the defeat of the invading Mongols. According to the legend, this was the spot where Dmitry Donskoi, Grand Duke of Moscow, saw an apparition of Nikolai while he was leading his army to fight the Mongol Khan Mamai. Inspired by the apparition, Donskoi exclaimed: "That warms my heart!" "Ugresha," the old Russian word for warmth, then immediately became the name of the cloister and the city.

The cloister's fame and prosperity were enhanced by its proximity to the settlement of Ostrov, a tsarist country residence. On their way from Moscow to Ostrov, the tsars, together with their families and retinues, made what they called the "Ugresh pilgrimage."

The cloister's architectural ensemble, surrounded by a brick wall with eight gates and 16 towers that also included a garden and several ponds, was formed much later, in the 16th-18th centuries. While keeping to the traditional Russian style, it underwent a fundamental reconstruction in the second half of the 19th century, retaining some of the old buildings – principally the tsar's and patriarch's mansions, the belfry and three wall towers dating to the 17th century. The cathedral is, surprisingly, Russia's second-largest after Moscow's Christ the Savior.

Once in power, the communists immediately sought to erase the city's past, renaming it Krasny Detsky Gorodok (Red Children's Town) in 1920. Before long they had it renamed it in honor of Felix Dzerzhinsky – founder of the Cheka, forerunner of the NKVD and KGB – calling it the Dzerzhinsky Trudovaya Kommuna (Dzerzhinsky Labor Commune). Not many people may know that Dzerzhinsky once said to Lenin that his preferred occupation was looking after children. Perhaps by coincidence, the Labor Commune soon became a reformatory for homeless children, who were housed on the territory of the cloister. Eventually, the commune's long and clumsy name was shortened to Dzerzhinsky.

The communists didn't take long to damage the town's cloister. The chapels and belfry were destroyed; the garden was ploughed up, and the cloister's auxiliary structures were remodeled to accommodate a hospital. The famous Transfiguration Church didn't fare much better; it was converted into a sports gymnasium. To add insult to injury, the ancient Nikolsky church was demolished. In late 1970, a fire swallowed the wooden church of Sergii Radonezhsky and its rectory. Allegedly, workers set the fire to the church in order to hide their theft of building materials.

Fortunately, the communist regime perished before the cloister could. Since then, a miracle has taken place. Through the efforts of local organizations and with some financial backing from Moscow, the town's residents are restoring the ancient heritage to its former color and glory.

The cloister's territory is a delightful place for walks. Footpaths paved in decorative stone lead to an old pond with ducks; a museum, which has been opened near the cloister is now open, although potential visitors need to receive the archbishop's permission to visit the museum.

The cloister is self-sufficient, as it operates a small farm with cows, sheep and chickens and several greenhouses that cultivate lemons, coffee, laurel and pineapples.

When I was there, the town striked me as exceptionally clean and tidy – I did not see a single piece of wastepaper or empty can anywhere. Since many of the old mansions still remain, the streets around the cloister are well-worth a brief walk. The statue of Donskoi in the central square is lined with freshly cut flowers; the monument itself is a favorite hangout for the local youth.

The bus ride to Dzerzhinsky is short and pleasant. A regularly-scheduled Moscow bus will take you through the picturesque Tomilinsky forest park to the center of town. It is better to complete a tour of Dzerzhinsky in one day since there are no hotels in the city. The town offers several restaurants and lots of cafes near the cloister.

HOW TO GET THERE:
From metro Kuzminsky, bus No. 347
Or at the Kazansky vokzal, bus No. 21
Tel: 095-551-7007