Budapest may have been the Paris of eastern Europe, but it hadn’t registered on my list of places to see before a friend suggested a weekend away as a cure for the Moscow winter blahs.

It is worth every cent of the Aeroflot seat special ($210 round trip), and then some. Travelers will find a city with a pleasant blend of eastern and western Europe – more urban and with more to see than Prague, yet not so westernized or expensive as London or Vienna.

Here you can indulge a sweet tooth – not to mention confuse the metro kiosk ladies – with delicious chocolate croissants, 145 forints (just over $.50) for 100 grams. You can have an entire, enormous meal, including wine, appetizers and dessert, for $15 per person – less if you’re careful.

You can spend entire days just admiring the architecture of the Parliament buildings, the magnificent synagogue, St. Stephen’s Basilica, St. Mattias’s Cathedral, the Fishermen’s Bastion and more. And at the end of a weekend, you’ll still feel as though there’s more to come back for.

First, a word of warning: The Hungarian language, part of the Finno-Ugric language group, resembles nothing most people have ever studied. And, while English is common in tourist areas, you may not be so lucky once you venture off the beaten path. So be prepared to do some pointing and hand signals.

That said, though, people are generally friendly and patient, and welcome travelers as a vital part of the city’s economy.

Budapest is basically split in two by the Danube River. Buda is hilly and historic, with the Citadel, Castle Hill, the Fishermen’s Bastion and St. Mattias’s Cathedral. The Pest side is where real life happens: Though it has the Parliament buildings and St. Stephen’s, it’s also where you’re most likely to find affordable hotels and pensions, a wide range of restaurants and the best shopping. A trip to the State Opera House, whether for a performance (tickets range from 500 to 10,000 forints, or about $2.50 to $50) or just to see its rich decor, is also worth your time. Heroes’ Square is a bit out of the way but is near a popular park.

You can’t help but be drawn to the Vaci pedestrian street, with its many shops and cafes. However, if you’re looking for some authentic paprika, a unique souvenir – linens and clothing with exquisite embroidery or glassware – or supplies for a picnic, try the market at the foot of Vamhaz street, just before crossing the Szabadsag bridge. The open-concept building’s two stories are jammed with finds.

A trip to Budapest is no time to start a diet. Traditional Hungarian food is delicious but heavy on meat, fish and sauces, and light on vegetables. And dessert is not to be missed.

The city has no shortage of cafes, serving basic Hungarian dishes and sometimes more westernized ones. The Cafe Perce chain is cozy, has English menus, and serves a range of soups and sandwiches at reasonable prices. If dessert and a coffee are what you’re after, Cafe Gerbeaud – with a namesake cake – is on Vorosmarty, a posh yet reasonably priced spot to while away some time.

Or, the Grand Hotel Hungaria has retained much of its historic splendor – as long as you ignore the big Best Western sign out front. The coffee isn’t great but the desserts are out of this world; try the Somloi Delight, a marvelous concoction of sponge cake with rich chocolate sauce, fruit and cream.

If you want to escape heavier fare, try the tiny sushi spot beside the British Embassy – the food is cheap but decent and the atmosphere cheerful.

Dinner options abound: you’ll find Italian, Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Indian as well as places specializing in national cuisine. A popular weekend spot – reservations are recommended – is the Absinthe Cafe on Andrassy Street, which serves a sort of nouveau-Hungarian cuisine. Main dishes start at around $10. Popular with travelers is the Fatal Restaurant, which is located just off Vaci. Its enormous portions are worth a stop if you’re with a group; however, this is an example where both service and atmosphere have suffered as a result of too many guidebook recommendations.

Hungary’s steam baths are famous, and would be an ideal stop should the weather turn foul. However, the best-known baths, in the Gellert Hotel, are said to be closed for repairs, so call before you go.

When it comes time to sleep, as in other parts of eastern and central Europe, pensions can be the best value for money, if you choose carefully. The Kalvin House pension, located on Gonczy Street not far from the Danube on the Pest side, was a treasure of a find. For 60 euros per night in the off season, you’ll get a huge double room with antique furniture – though be prepared to sit as you shower. The decor is not lavish, but it’s clean; the small staff make the most of their command of English, and breakfast, which is included, is a generous spread of meats, cheeses, yogurt, cereal and bread.