Croatia is a diamond in the rough. Situated in the midst of the ethnically tense and intermittently war-stricken Balkans, it has acquired an unfortunate reputation for being torn by ethnic violence and religious tension. But it is actually heaven on earth. Of course, most travelers forgot about Croatia during the country's rocky battle for independence from Yugoslavia from 1991-95. Prior to independence, as many as 10 million tourists used to flock to the coastline and natural parks every year, but the bloody conflict, in which many Croats lost their homes and lives, kept visitors at bay.

"The war was bad... boom, boom, boom, boom," said an old woman who rents out rooms to travelers in Dubrovnik. She gave us a ride to her place in her old Zhiguli and explained that everything was calm now, but that life had been better before. "My husband hasn't worked for seven years," she said. So, the old couple supplements their income by renting out rooms for 80-120 kuna ($10-$15) a night.

What they do is not all that uncommon. Croatia is short on cheap hotels, but is full of old couples and families who rent out rooms (sobe) to backpackers and other tourists. The easiest way to find rooms is to show up at the bus or train station and wait for someone to ask you if you need lodgings for the night. There are few signs of the war left, although travelers are warned not to stray from the roads in some parts of the country, due to leftover land mines.

In fact, there is absolutely no excuse not to go to Croatia. It's a perfect picture of paradise, with long, rocky beaches framed by mountain tops, a rocky interior full of rivers and waterfalls and a pastoral north, dominated by small farms and gentle forests. The tourist hordes are returning to the country, but still not in record numbers, so get there while it's relatively quiet. Most tourists come to the country during the summer months, especially Italians, who can hop across the Adriatic on daily ferries.

"They come here for the beaches," said Ivan, a clothes smuggler I met on the train to Zagreb. "In Italy there are nice beaches, but they are all sand. The Italians like the rocks."
The azure blue waters of the Adriatic are a big draw for any tourist, but the rocky beaches can be hard on the feet. Split, the second-largest city in Croatia, has crowded, but sandy, beaches for tender toes. But the old town of Split, housed in the remains of the palace of Roman Emperor Diocletian, is a charming and peaceful oasis. It is also a UNESCO-protected World Heritage site, along with Dubrovnik's Stari Grad.

The medieval charm of both towns is reminiscent of a time long past, and the sunsets in Dubrovnik are spectacular. Locals spend the evenings smoking endless cigarettes, drinking espresso and wine at local outdoor cafes and enjoying the gentle evening breezes on the cobblestone streets. The narrow alleyways and long staircases lead to hidden cafes, restaurants and ice-cream shops nestled deep in the city. In the mornings, the only scents in the air are fresh pines, roses and the sea breeze.

Ferries are by far the best way to see the coast. Visitors can hop from island to island, or take trips to all the major cities along the water, but travel time is much longer than on the train or bus. However, it is infinitely more comfortable, and the wide hydrofoil-ferries always have a cheap cafe and bar on board. Buses and trains will take you anywhere else. Since almost all flights land in the Zagreb airport, travelers will probably need to take a train or bus to reach the coast. Car-rental services are a readily available, but pricey, alternative. You can also catch a flight on Croatia Airlines to Dubrovnik, if 13 hours on a bus sounds too painful.

Dubrovnik may very well be the most beautiful place on Earth, although the scars of war still mark some downtown buildings. The Hotel Libertas is a bombed-out shell of a building, covered in bullet holes and broken glass, having suffered in the Siege of Dubrovnik during the 1991 conflict. Yet the beach in front of the building is still pristine.

The islands that dot the coast are a must-see, and visitors can even visit Korcula, the alleged birthplace of famed explorer Marco Polo. Of course, life has changed a bit since his day. Scooters and Audis have long since replaced horses and donkeys, and the mainland is much easier to reach, thanks to speedy ferries that run back and forth. But you can't help but wonder why he or anyone else would ever want to leave. After all, where is there to go, when you already live in paradise?