Russians seem to have made Antalya a second home these days, though a wander around Istanbul shows that there’s no shortage of Russians there, either. With its simple visa system (you can obtain one at the airport), and short two-hour flight from Moscow, Istanbul is a popular place, whether for sightseeing, shopping or as a starting point for a trip around Turkey.

Driving in from the airport, Istanbul looks at first glance like Moscow, only greener. But the landscape soon changes with the sea, hills and minarets rising here and there.

The most famous sites are crowded into Sultanahmet, a generally spruced-up area on the European side of the city. Aya Sofia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace – architecture spanning centuries – all lie within walking distance of each other amid parks, crowds of tourists and meandering Turkish vendors.

On the same side of the city is the enormous Covered Market with row after row of Turkish souvenirs. Though impressive in setting, this market is a bit artificial, and you can find a better atmosphere down the hill in the Egyptian Market, which sells all kinds of spices, in addition to souvenirs.

Like many old cities, Istanbul remains divided into districts specializing in particular crafts. If you take the time to explore the labyrinth of climbing streets and negotiate the crowds, you’ll find the zipper-and-button district, the television-repair district, children’s toys district and many more. You’ll also find districts, such as Laleli, selling clothing and leather goods, beloved to Russian shop-tourists and full of wandering Turkish vendors trying to speak Russian.

If Istanbul starts to feel too big and crowded, relax by taking a cruise up the Bosporus on one of the ferries from Eminonu, where you can catch boats to other parts of the city as well as depart on a Bosporus cruise. If the weather’s warm, you can sit out on the deck sipping fresh-squeezed orange juice, and it’s a good way to take in this sprawling city. Taking the cruise right to the end will bring you to Anadolu Kavagi, a medieval castle perched high on a hillside, and you can feast on the fish knowing that it wasn’t just hauled up from under the Galata Bridge.

But if you don’t mind knowing that your fish came from under the Galata Bridge, stay in Eminonu and go toward the water’s edge, where you’ll find countless men selling fried fish wrapped in bread. Not far away, rows of fishermen on the Galata Bridge stand with their lines out in what looks like a "feed the naive tourists" business.

On the other side of the Galata Bridge, a steep climb past the bicycle parts and metal engraving districts will bring you to the tall, Genoese-built Galata Tower. A further climb past the musical-instruments district will take you to Istiklal Caddesi, a long and picturesque pedestrian street with an old-fashioned tram running its length. This is obviously a chic part of town with a good sprinkling of embassies, clothing chains, music stores and upscale boutiques. It’s a good place to sit in a cafe window and watch the people go by, especially as there are plenty of tasty and very affordable cafes to choose from.

Istanbul can seem at moments gray, chaotic and harassing, but if you’re patient, it will start to reveal its magic. Relax in a tea garden, cool down with some Ayran – the local fermented yogurt drink – or a refreshing orange juice, feel the sea breeze, listen as the call to prayer rings out over the city and contemplate all the events, emperors and sultans, wars and intrigues these hillsides have witnessed.

As for finding a roof over your head, it’s easy to find hotels for as little as $10 a night, especially in the Aksaray and Laleli districts. For my part, I highly recommend the very central and friendly little Ibrahim Pasha hotel at 5 Terzihane Sokak. Rooms are approximately $75-$90, but you can bargain for some very substantial discounts. • TW