I haven’t yet met anyone who doesn’t like Italian food. I know people who consider Indian dishes too spicy, Chinese – greasy and sickly, Japanese – a minimalist joke, French – pretentious and over-hyped, German – too basic and British … OK, we’ll stop there. However, I reckon that absolutely everyone adores Italian food. This sweeping statement includes myself, so it was with greedy glee that I made the long trip to Bellagio, to sample the wares of this up-market restaurant, which opened in November and is allied to the Chateau Lyon casino.

Named after a town in Northern Italy, the restaurant boasts a high-caliber chef in Antonio Rizzi, and offers a large, mouth-watering menu with particular attention paid to meat dishes (grilled outside) and Mediterranean seafood. In addition, Bellagio prides itself on an appetizing array of expensive flambeed food (averaging around $50), which is fired up at the table.

As well as the extensive edibles, there’s a huge drinks list, with a good range of grappa and a superb choice of regional Italian wines. However, as I didn’t want to destroy the family budget in these times of economic uncertainty, we chose draft Grolsch ($6 for 400 ml) and sat back admiring the design of Bellagio. The restaurant exudes classy calmness, with spaciousness created by high ceilings and glass panels looking onto a sort of mini-courtyard/garden, around which Bellagio occupies a large L-shape. The interior contains two curtained-off rotundas, a separate bar area and a small stage where musicians play atmospheric pop and jazz on a daily basis. A stone floor and columns dominate, with greenery provided by various plants, including exotic fresh flowers on the stylish round tables. It really is a lovely place, enhanced by beautiful white tableware and professional, non-intrusive service.

After complimentary flaky pastry parcels of roast vegetables, we indulged ourselves with delicious starters – the wife had a very fresh carpaccio of tuna, swordfish and sea-perch ($14), while I scoffed down a rich mix of eggplant, mozzarella, ham and tomato pesto ($8). Following this, I went for a rack of lamb ($8 for 100g, $16 for 200g, $24 for 300g, $32 for 400g), accompanied by a side dish of fresh spinach with butter and parmesan ($9). It’s probably been said before, but my piece of meat was unbelievably succulent and well worth having. Meanwhile, the spouse gobbled on ravioli with white mushrooms ($10), featuring ricotta and Taleggio cheese in a creamy sauce. Moving on to desserts, the signora had a cholesterol-charged, mascarpone tiramisu ($8), and I downed a rich, ricotta and berry cheesecake ($8) flanked by shaved almonds, while sipping on strong espressos ($4) which came with a choice of three types of sugar. Sweet.

All the food was superb, and that’s one of the reasons Bellagio manages to attract some illustrious show-biz guests. Another major factor is its location opposite Mosfilm Studios and Bellagio’s sponsorship of the "Alley of Actors" – Moscow’s equivalent of the Hollywood Walk of Fame. However, although it’s the sort of place you can go to and spend an absolute fortune – especially with the temptations of the roulette table next door – the restaurant is elite rather than elitist. Despite its undoubted class, it doesn’t come over as pretentious. In fact, it’s difficult to find any faults, other than the hole it can leave in your pocket. Bellagio is a welcoming, delicious example of a fine Italian restaurant.

Behind Chateau Lyon Casino

8 Mosfilmovskaya Ul.

Metro: Kievskaya

Tel: 143-887