Historical and beautiful - Riga, Latvia has it all

Issue Number: 
523
Author: 
Marissa Payne
Published: 
2003-04-30


The capital of Latvia, Riga, is a flourishing and beautiful city with many parks, museums, theaters, cafes and nightclubs. Just an overnight train ride from Moscow, you can turn your trip to Riga into a weekend getaway. Riga is rich in culture and history, but like its Baltic neighbors, Estonia and Lithuania, Latvia’s past has not always been pleasant.

Riga has had a turbulent history and nationalism has always been a major issue. After the religious battles between German traders and the ancient tribal Livonians, Riga became a major port city in 1201 when Bishop Albert built a castle near the Daugave river. Riga then became the target of invasion, when both Sweden and Russia battled over its control in the early 1700s. By 1795, the Russians were able to oust any Swedish influence and take control of the country until WWI. During this time, native Latvians (many of whom were killed in various battles with the Tsarist troops) began to build a network of opposition and formed nationalist organizations, and on November 18, 1918, after hundreds of years of struggle, Latvia became an independent state. However, this independence became tainted when Germany and then the Soviet Union forcefully occupied Latvian territory. Finally in September 1991, the U.S.S.R. recognized Latvia as an independent nation.

Regrettably, because of the horrendous actions of the Soviet Union, some Latvians still harbor a hatred of all things Russian. Before I went there, I was advised to speak English, even though most of the population is practically fluent in Russian. But when I arrived, I found it much easier to communicate in Russian and no one seemed to mind. In fact, with a population consisting of roughly 30 percent Russians, many people preferred to speak Russian – though I do suggest you learn basic Latvian phrases before you go, just so you don’t feel quite so lost.

Language and nationalism aside, Latvia is a very pleasant and fun city to visit. In order to really understand Latvia’s recent history, I strongly suggest you go to the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia, where you will find various exhibits relating to the Nazi and Soviet occupations of Latvia. For a more lighthearted outing, get acquainted with traditional Latvian culture by visiting the Open Air Ethnographic Museum where you can wander around old churches and villages and drink and eat traditional dishes in a real Latvian tavern.

Also, don’t forget to enjoy the lovely spring weather and just wander around Old Town Riga, which is a mostly renovated and very clean area of the city. Make sure to check out the Art Nouveau architecture on Alberta iela (street). Some buildings haven’t been renovated yet and you can still go inside.

Also, go into the famous Dome Cathedral and St. Peter’s Church. The former is the largest place of worship in the Baltics and boasts one of the biggest pipe organs in Europe. The latter dates back to 1209, but its latest wooden tower was built in 1973.

If you want to spend time outdoors, pack a picnic lunch and a book and head down to one of the city’s sprawling downtown parks. You should definitely stroll through Bastion Hill, which is filled with history and offers an excellent view of the city.

After a day of rigorous sightseeing (or lounging in a park), take advantage of the diversity of nightlife and restaurants in Riga. There are numerous nightclubs, theaters, movies, bars and concert halls located in and around Old Town Riga.

Riga’s restaurants offer an array of options for Asian, Mexican, Italian and, of course, Latvian cuisine, though, as with Russian food, it’s heavy on the meat and mayonnaise. If you’re looking for dirt-cheap options, then duck into one of the many places labeled "kafejunica" (cafe) and grab a bite to eat. And if you’re up partying till dawn, head for the 24-hour eatery Lido on Gertrudes 54 for a quiet breakfast.

Riga will not disappoint party animals. Whether you’re looking for a chill bar or a raging dance floor, Riga has it all. And lucky for real bar-hoppers, most of Riga’s best bars and clubs are located within walking distance of each other.

If you don’t feel like partying, but would still like to go out, get tickets to a play or opera. The two leading theaters in town are the Opera and the New Riga Theater.

Those of you who are fans of Euro-pop music have a real treat in store: The Eurovision song contest runs at the Skonto Hall in Riga starting on May 24. Russian pseudo-lesbian duo Tatu is scheduled to appear, although contest organizers have angered the group by requiring them to don attire that covers their undergarments. If that’s your thing, book tickets now because they’re selling out fast.

Riga has a pretty good shopping scene, too. There are modern malls in the center that offer a variety of clothes at reasonable prices, especially if you’re lucky enough to catch a sale. Bargain-hunters should check out Bik Bok and Cubus where you’ll find well-priced, cool clothing that you’ve wanted to buy in Moscow but couldn’t afford or find. For souvenirs, check out the areas behind the Dome Cathedral and St. Peter’s Church. While I didn’t buy any, I hear Latvia has some beautiful amber.

Finding somewhere to stay shouldn’t be a problem, as there are plenty of reasonably priced hotels, bed and breakfasts and hostels to choose from. Tourist season is approaching, however, so I suggest you try and make a reservation before going. One place to try is the Tia Hotel, located in the center. The rooms (with individual bathrooms, cable TV and balcony) cost about $50 a night.

If you go by train, you’ll arrive at the central train station, which is located right in the Old Town. When I arrived, I had no idea that most things in downtown Riga were within walking distance of each other so I chose to take a taxi to my hotel, which was about a 15-minute walk away. The three-minute car ride ended up costing me about five Latvian Ls (roughly $8.50).

The airport is located 8 km southwest of the city and is accessible by bus. Depending on where you’re staying, it is possible to get picked up and dropped off at your hotel.

Latvia is also a popular place to pick up your visa if you’re an expat in Moscow. The Russian Embassy is located at Antonijas 2 in the Old Town and the Consulate is just across the street. But beware: Before you go, make sure you have travel insurance and all other required documents on hand because rumor has it they’re starting to enforce the new visa rules.

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