On the banks of a purplish river, Riga rises from the flat like a fairytale city, bristling with spires and gleaming in clear bright sunlight. A cool breeze refreshes the air and high overhead you can see seagulls scanning the water for fish in the river or white swans laboring their way towards the Bay of Riga. From the brand-spanking new airport it is only a 15-minute drive to Riga’s main attraction – the city center.
The most striking thing about old Riga is the mix of different architectural styles, namely medieval, baroque, Art Nouveau and Soviet. The magnificent Dome Cathedral presides over them all like a kindly patriarch whose doors regularly belch out solemn organ music. Such grandeur provides an atmospheric backdrop for summer strolls. It’s easy to while away an afternoon just seeing what people are wearing as they bustle along the cobblestone streets. Private vendors on the main drags sell flowers that perfume the fresh sea air; pretty green parks offer shade and rest for weary walkers; and every corner has its own cafe or bakery that specializes in good drinks and its own delicious sweets. In the evening, you can take your pick of nightclubs, bars and restaurants. My favorite eatery was Osiriss, an elegant 10-year-old establishment on Barona Street that serves up a wonderful couscous salad and to-die-for strawberry bliny.
If you want a taste of the country country but don’t want to forgo creature comforts then take a short drive to Jurmala (pronounced Yur-mala). This pretty seaside town is surrounded by beautiful and fragrant pine forest. Its beach has white sand and healthful air, which is one reason for its fame as a spa town. The main promenade, Jomas Street, has several nice cafes, banks, convenience stores and shops. A yachting club and a modern children’s water amusement park are also nearby. There’s even a concert hall that shows internationally renowned artists. Aside from that, Jurmala is something of a wonder of the world: In 1998, the European Council included part of Jurmala, along with its unique wooden architecture, in the UNESCO project’s list of cultural and natural landmarks.
Yes, there is plenty to do in Latvia but I was always glad to return to base. The Radisson SAS on the Daugava deserves its reputation as one of the best hotels in the Baltics: Many of Eurovision’s stars stayed there and even Prince Charles has bedded down in the luxurious presidential suite. The staff is uniformly efficient and helpful and speaks excellent English and Russian. Every morning I would wake up and see a panorama view of the city center. My suite had everything anyone could want: A bed, bubble bath facilities, a balcony, TV, mini-bar, free chocolate, two phone lines (for dual Internet and phone-line use), a spacious wardrobe, snow-white bathrobe and slippers, and complimentary breakfast in bed. Nor were my pants forgotten: There was a trouser press on the wall.
Should you ever want to leave your room, it would be easy to entertain yourself without leaving the hotel. Business people are catered to: There are fine conference rooms to suit a meeting of any size. A business center conveniently allows you to fax, email, print, and surf the net at any time of the day or night. And you certainly won’t starve: the Radisson SAS possesses three fine eateries: The Vienna cafe, American cafe and Talavera. Guests can use the Fitness Club free of charge, so you can lose the calories in the gym or swimming pool before relaxing with a sauna or massage. Buy handcrafted jewelry from the Amber Room or other souvenirs from the store on the ground floor. Then, if you still have money, you can enjoy a cocktail at the bar or try your luck at the Olympic Casino. After a couple days there, only a stroll away from the historic town center, I guarantee that, like me, you’ll already be looking forward to your next visit. •