Practical ideas on how to push your professional objectives forward often come at lunchtime. So, if you happen to choose a restaurant with the "right" atmosphere, your career situation might start looking up.

I had an appointment at the restaurant NOA, which one of my friends had described to me as "upscale and truly Italian." And since Italian restaurants are all the rage in Moscow, I jumped at the opportunity to take in the latest craze.

NOA’s name is an acronym for "God of Pearls." And indeed, at first glance, NOA is a real gem.

Opened in June and set in the posh locale of the Smolenskaya area, this multi-storied restaurant is a cozy nook for all who are searching for the ambiance of a laidback atmosphere.

As you walk through the doors, you enter the spacious "pearly" room with comfy sofas and small tables scattered all around. The biggest draw of the room in question is probably the bar. You can’t keep your eyes off the numerous funky bottles that contain exclusive varieties of alcohol.

Up the stairs, there’s another eating zone, where you can either book a table overlooking the bar, or settle down in a separate room (that can even be locked!) where the lighting is particularly flattering.

Otherwise, you can opt for the highest level of NOA’s cuisine and location if you move on to the room on the top floor. This room, with a handsome seafood showcase and an open charcoal grill, is a must-visit, I have to admit. But, beware – the prices on the restaurant menu of NOA are really much higher than on the "non-restaurant" one. Fortunately – or unfortunately – my budget only allowed me to sample the cheaper variant.

I loathe reading menus, so I wanted to order as quickly as possible. The first disappointment came when the waiter failed to help me make the right choice. The staff seemed to be exceptionally ignorant, but friendly. They were unable to tell me the difference between the Mediterranean-style Seviche and the regular one, but I finally settled on the former (520 rubles). It turned out to be piquant raw Branzino fish, thinly chopped, marinated in lime with parsley and onion and served with fresh tomato, shaped as a tiny pyramid. NOA’s portions are quite small, but, somehow, you don’t regret it.

I washed away the Mediterranean taste with freshly squeezed carrot juice. Then, I had a large bowl of thick, nicely perfumed creamy soup with shrimp and beans (380 rubles). The whole bowlful tasted fresh, but I couldn’t finish it.

For the main course, I ordered my favorite Italian dish: Risotto with shrimp, asparagus and mushrooms (380 rubles). This was the only time I wished something was double-sized.

When I picked up the last rice item left on the plate and looked around, I noticed my friend coming in. She joined me, and we ordered dessert. I went for strawberry mousse Bavareze (260 rubles), which wasn’t too sweet, but refreshing, and she had vanilla ice cream. My friend said that her ice cream was decent.

Everything was all right, I thought. But… none of it was anything to write home about. And although meticulous planning has been given to each detail of the decor, obviously it’s not enough to make you enjoy the food.